Questions and Answers

Q: Can you tell me why ADMTM 2000 is different from store brands? And is ADMTM 2000 sold in stores or do I have to buy it from this site? 

A: ADMTM 2000 is not like any retail brands. From the pigment we use to the actual sealant and from application to durability nothing compares. It is sold in the Chicagoland area otherwise we can ship. Deckstore.com

Q: If you do not have a dealer in our area ...Where can I buy your product?

A: If there is not a retailer in your area we sell our product nationwide, shipped through UPS. Please visit the deckstore.com or call us at 1-888-272-WOOD for more details. Deckstore.com

Q: I am looking for a product that does not take long to dry and is safe for my pets to walk/lie on. Do you know of a product that is pet safe?

A: ADMTM 2000 is pet safe once it is dry and it is also food safe. Drying time varies with weather and humidity. (Appox. 48 hours)

Q: I have a covered white pine deck. I stained it about six months ago and it now looks dull and faded. I'd like to know about your ADMTM 2000 safe-wash cleaner and sealer.

A: Our Safe-wash is super for cleaning all types of decks with all kinds of finishes.  It will remove the dirt but won't harm the finish. Remember to follow directions closely. Deckstore.com/cleaner

Q: I have been looking at different cleaners and sealers for my deck. Most store brands claim superiority and offer a two-year warranty. However, I noticed a product with a 15-year warranty.  Why do you feel I should chose ADMTM 2000?

A: We have been using ADMTM 2000 product in a residential consumer business for over eight years. To date we have not found a better product and we try to test all new products out. There is one thing about new products though, it is that they are new and have no proven track record. I also find warrantees are only as good as the company behind them. Deckstore.com/sealer/HTML
 

SEALING DECKS:

Q: I'm trying to decide if I want to seal or stain my deck. Which do you recommend?

A: If the deck is raw wood, I recommend sealing. If you want to add color, I suggest using a tinted sealer, however, if it is already stained continue to use a stain.

Q: Our local hardware store is recommending we use Curpinal deck stain and sealer to seal our new deck.  We have heard good and bad about the product, what do you think?

A: Curpinal is okay, it is better than Thompson water sealer, I personally don't like the colors they have or how it looks after a short time.

Q: My cedar deck is five years old. The original installer applied CWF as a sealer. A year later I power washed and sealed with CWF again.  I now have two different workmen with two different opinions. One is to power wash and continue to seal with CWF; and the other is to wash, sand necessary areas and use an actual stain. Could you please give me your opinion?

A: Stain is much harder to maintain, I don't recommend it. As far as CWF is concerned first you have to let the CWF wear off completely or strip off all the remaining coating, before reapplying CWF. (Over application of this product will leave a mess) CWF is an okay product but there are far superior products out there. Consider our ADM 2000. Deckstore.com

Q: Is it true that decks will turn silver again from weathering? I've been told that some sealers last longer to prevent this. 

A: Applying clear sealer will protect your wood from water but won't do much for UV protection. So your deck will eventually turn gray (silver) again. To prevent this, use a sealant with a little pigment in it. Consider ADMTM 2000 wood sealer it comes in several colors. Deckstore.com

Q: It unexpectedly rained four hours after I applied Thompson's water sealer. What will this do? Will it hurt surrounding plants? Do I need to reseal it?

A: Yes, you should reseal it, eventually.  If it was a hard rain chances are it washed away most of the sealer and you now have a blotchy mess. But plants should survive this occurrence. Wait until the sealant wears off (at least six months to a year). Rewash the deck and seal it with a high grade sealer.

Q: I have used TWP in the past on my cedar deck and it seemed to work okay. I got two years of protection from two coats (wet on wet). How does your sealer/stain compare and what is your guarantee?

A: TWP is okay but do not over apply because it will peel. ADMTM 2000 will not peel because it is not a film coating.  ADMTM 2000 is far superior to most products with one coat and it comes in several natural colors.
You can find our guarantee at Stains&sealer page

Q:  We just replaced our deck with pressure treated wood. We want to seal and stain the deck, as well as, paint the railing to match the porch. What are your suggestions for making sure we do this in the proper order and time frame to maintain the beauty of our new deck?

A: Clean the entire deck first. Then start with the rails. Place tarps under them and work in ten foot sections doing the outside first, then the inside. This will avoid drips and flashing. After rails are dry, seal the decking surface with a pigmented sealer try to stay away from staining the deck.

Q: I was all set to use Thompson's on my deck but after reading some stories of other peoples experiences I'm not sure I want to use it now. What do you suggest?

A: We do not recommend Thompson's water sealer. We suggest high quality sealers like our ADMTM 2000. Check out Deckstore.com

Q: My deck is six months old, pressure treated wood. I cleaned with water and allowed to dry for a few days, then applied sealer (with a sprayer).  I mopped off what appeared not to be taking. Waited 48 hours and applied a second coat. Again, I sponged what appeared not to be taking. Now after 48+ hours that deck is still tacky. I am in Texas and the weather is in the high 90's with 70+ humidity. What do I do? I guess I screwed up by using Thompson's. Help.

A: Way over application - it's going to be sticky for a while.  It would help to know which Thompson's product was used. Some of their products will wear out in six months and by next year there should be nothing left. In which case time will help you. I really need to know more information on products used to serve you better. The least you should do is let it wear off and maybe lightly powerwash it on evenly using a deck stripper. Deck stripping/HTML

Q: Can the ADMTM 2000 be used as final product in place of a stain?

A: Yes, ADMTM 2000 comes in tinted colors so it can be used in place of a stain. In fact, we recommend it in place of stain.

Q: My understanding with traditional stains, you need to maintain it every year of two. What is the longevity of your product?

A: ADMTM 2000 should be recoated about every three years for maximum color and water protection on horizontal surfaces. We have seen it go for 6 years on the vertical surfaces like rails, posts, ect. Sealer & Stain

Q: Can the tinted ADMTM 2000 be applied with a sprayer?

A: It can be applied with a sprayer, this works great for rails but back brush.  We find rolling and brushing to be the best method for decking planks.

Q: How long should I wait before putting stain on a two week old deck that has a type 1 pressure treated wood?

A: If you can stay away from stain try using a pigment sealer. Stain is very high maintenance. Especially on pressure treated lumber. If you really need to stain, apply Flood Companies Seasonit and let weather over the winter, up to one year. Then your deck will be ready to accept a stain. Sealer & Stain

Q: I would like to find out whether I can apply your sealer now or do I need to wait until my deck lumber has seasoned. I used pressure treated lumber.

A: Yes, wait at least 2 week of dry weather, from time of completion. Than you can apply our sealer now and it comes in many colors. But you do have to check to make sure the wood is ready. Seal/HTML

Q: How do you schedule a deck maintenance when rain seems to occur every 3-4 days? And what is the proper drying time after cleaning and the sealing?

A: Seal the deck one to two days after cleaning (depending on humidity). And a minimum of 24 hours after sealing before rain. Prepare your deck to be sealed (clean, sanding, washing, ect.) then the day after it's dry apply your sealer and hope it doesn't rain in 24 hours. 

Q: I put a sealer on my deck a couple years ago. Can I put a stain over the seal?

A: Yes, if you put the sealer on a few years ago all you need to do it clean the deck thoroughly, and check to make sure there are no sealant area's left. You can do that using a power washer.  Then after it dries thoroughly you can apply the stain. Cleaning/HTML  Also check with manufacturer about coating.

Q: We are in the process of cleaning our deck. We now want to put n the best protector possible. What do you recommend for a deck exposed to the hot Texas sun?

A: We recommend ADMTM 2000. We ship it throughout the country. Call us at 1-888-272-WOOD for details. Check out deckstore.com/sealer
 

STAIN DECKS:

Q: I'm trying to decide if I want to seal or stain my deck.  Which do you recommend?

A: If the deck is raw wood, I recommend sealing.  If you want to add color, I suggest using a tinted sealer, however, if it is already stained continue to use a stain. Deckstore.com/sealer

Q: My deck has been previously stained. What it the procedure to maintain the deck?

A: You can continue to restain the deck for maintenance. To serve you better we need to know your type of deck and any previous products used on it.

Q: Can the ADMTM 2000 be used as a final product in place of a stain?

A: Yes, ADMTM 2000 comes in tinted colors so it can be used in place of a stain. In fact, we recommend it in place of stain.

Q: My understanding with traditional stains is you need to maintain it every year or two. What is the longevity of your product?

A: Actually, you should get a little longer than two years depending on substrate coated and product used.  ADMTM 2000 should be recoated about every three years for maximum color and water protection.

Q: How long should I wait before putting stain on a two week old deck that has a type 1 pressure treated wood?

A: If you can stay away from stain, try using a pigmented sealer.  Stain is very high maintenance.  Especially on pressure treated lumber.  If you really need to stain, apply Flood companies "Seasonit" and let weather over the winter.  Then your deck will be ready to accept a stain. About wood
 

CLEANING:

Q: My deck is slippery. What should I do?

A: Clean your deck, check out americandeck.com/cleaning.html. You can use an over-the-counter cleaner, like Deckwood by Flood Company or ADM Deck Brightener. Deckstore.com/cleaner

Q: Do you have any ideas how to remove sap from my pressure treated deck? I've tried mineral spirits and a commercial deck cleaner with no results.

A: Pressure treated lumber will ooze sap from the knots and surrounding hard wood.  Try turpentine instead of mineral spirits.  We usually will replace the boards if it's real bad.

Q: I have tried two different kinds of deck cleaners, also bleach, and powerwashing the deck. I have pressure treated wood and I am trying to remove the old stain. I am going crazy, how do I get the old stain off?

A: Try Wolman's Deck Stripper with a good pressure washer (3000psi @ 4 gallons per minute with a 25 degree tip).  Check out deckstore.com/stripping/html.

Q: I want to clean my deck to restore the color. Should I use bleach?

A: It is okay to clean the dirt off your deck, just use a good detergent. Bleach is bleach and that will not restoring the color of the wood it is bleaching it.  Bleach should only be used diluted and used only to kill mold & mildew. Deckstore.com/cleaner

Q: When my deck was new I used a clear waterproofer made for pressure treated wood. It came out great. This year, I bought waterproofer that was brown instead of clear. I hate the color. Is there any way to get it back to the color it was. I was told to wash it with bleach, will that do it?

A: Stop - do not use bleach. Since I do not know what product you used let it weather out until next year. Then use a deck stripper and a power washer to remove the coating. Wait until the wood has no coating left. Recoat using a high quality product. Deckstore.com/sealer
 

STRIPPING DECKS:

Q: I have a redwood deck that has been stained. I would like to bring it back to the original redwood color. What is the best way and what tools will be necessary?

A: It is time to buy some deck stripper and rent a pressure washer. You will need a four inch nylon brush, roller, pan, and a four to five foot pole.  Start with the rails and follow all directions in packaging. Some sanding may be necessary after stripping. Strip/HTML

Q: What is the best and fastest stripper on the market to remove old stain and varnish from my deck?

A: We like Wolman or Flood stripper. You may need multiple applications but it cleans up easily.

Q: I have a 15 year old cedar deck with numerous coats of Thompson's Water Seal and linseed oil. In a few places the oil didn't soak into the wood and has formed a glaze on the surface. Would you recommend renting a belt sander or would chlorine bleach do the trick?

A: I would not recommend the bleach or renting a belt sander. First, try a good quality deck stripper. Strip, then clean the deck and seal it. Strip/HTML

Q: I have a deck that has latex stain and is peeling badly.   I would like to seal the deck.  What should I do?

A: Try Wolman Deck Stripper, you may need two applications.  If any stain remains than you will need to sand.  Then clean and seal the deck. Strip/HTML
 

NEW DECKS:

Q: We built a new cedar deck and I have received conflicting opinions on how to treat it. I am very confused about the best way to clean it and the best product for sealing. I would prefer a water-based product since I have many chemical sensitivities and I am concerned about the lingering health effects of petroleum based product.  Can you suggest a good product?

A: A new cedar deck can be sealed with ADMTM 2000 after a good washing within a few weeks or so (depending on the product). The best product would be ADMTM 2000, however, it is petroleum base. Waterbase products tend to lay on the surface and will peel if applied too heavy. ADMTM 2000 is food safe after drying but is a little intense at first. Deckstore.com/cleaner

Q: I would like to know when the best time is sealing my newly built deck? 

A: Treat no more than 60 days from installation if it is cedar. And wait a minimum of 2 weeks of dry weather from installation if it is treated lumber. 

Q: I have new deck. How much sealant do I use each time use it?

A: Always follow the directions on the label carefully. We recommend using high quality sealers like our ADMTM 2000. Deckstore.com

Q: I had a brand new cedar deck installed a month ago. The contractor put a coat of oil based sealer on it. But a month later, the sealer does not seam to repel water anymore. There are even small scattered areas on the deck which appeared to be eroded by the water and started to peel off. Winter is coming soon, I am thinking of putting another coat of oil base sealer on it. How should I proceed with it? I've already sanded the rough areas. Should I sand the entire deck?

A: Stop - don't touch the deck. If you put another coat on it you will have double the problems. First, a sealer shouldn't peel. You need to get that stuff off of the deck. Cedar is very resilient and will withstand the winter. You can let the elements weather the existing sealer off the deck. Come summer clean the deck and reseal it with a quality penetrating sealer. Clean/HTML

Q: I live in Minnesota and just put a red cedar deck in. Should a put a sealer prior to winter or wait until next spring?

A: The temperture should be above 45 for at least 3-4 days before freezing or rain.  You don't want your deck left unprotected through the winter. Give your deck a good cleaning then treat it with a high quality sealer
 

MAHOGANY DECKS:

Q: Last summer we treated our mahogany deck with Penofin "Cedar Marine." Now it is bleached out with none of its original reddish-brown characteristics. We spent lots of money for premium products that dulled and faded. What went wrong? What can I do to get back that look?

A: Penofin will only last one year (maybe 2 years) and you should have used transparent "redwood" Penofin. Though we do recommend Penofin for use on hard wood. You will have to clean the wood again. Then treat the wood with ADM Wood Brightener to get the organic wood color back. Then retreat with the transparent redwood, try two coats. Deckstore.com/cleaning/HTML

Q: We are building a new home by the ocean with a mahogany deck. How do we preserve the rich color? What type of sealer do we use?

A: Penofin is a good product I suggest the transparent redwood. This slightly pigment sealer will bring out the natural rich color. It is a high-end maintenance product (you are looking at recoating every year or two). But don't let that discourage you.

Q: I have a deck made of mahogany. It is two years old and has turned black. I just pressure washed it and the wood lost its reddish tint. I used Thompson's sealer and I believe the problem with the black coloring is from the sealer. I want to clear stain the wood but everybody I asked told me not to. I don't know what to do. Any ideas?

A: Let all the stuff wear off that has been applied recently. Next, you must clean your deck thoroughly with a good detergent. That is providing your deck has no residue sealer left on it. Now starting with raw wood again, apply a solution of ADM Wood Brightener. This will bring back the original color of the wood. Then apply Penofin Sealer (transparent redwood will bring out the color you want).  Deckstore.com/cleaning/HTML
 

PERFORMANCE AND PROTECTION:

Q: I have used CWF wood finish on my deck for the past four years and have been generally satisfied. The only dislike is that I have to redo the floor yearly. Is there something else that may give better performance and protection?

A: Our product ADMTM 2000 will last you at least 3 years. Deckstore.com
 

ROTTEN WOOD:

Q: I moved into a home with a nice deck. I recently found out that the wood was rotten on the inside. I do not know how extensive the rot is. Since it still looks good we want to use the current deck. What can we do to prevent the wood from further decay? 

A: There's not much you can do to prevent further decay. It sounds like you have an old cedar deck.  The decay can never be completely stopped. Clean and seal the deck and use it as long as you can, till eventually you will have to replace the planks. Contact a carpenter in your area. 
 

SPLINTERING WOOD:

Q: I have recently pressure washed my deck and it is now showing some forms of splintering. In the past we have always applied Thompsons sealer. Is there a better or longer lasting product I can apply?

A: The pressure washer being too high against the wood is probably causing the splintering. Our ADMTM 2000 sealer lasts so many more times longer than Thompsons water sealer.
 

PAINTED DECKS:

Q: I have a small painted deck that is beginning to rot and peel, any suggestions?

A: Try Wolman Deck Stripper, it works pretty good. Once you get the paint off, replace any rotten boards. Now you are ready to seal your deck.

Q: If we stain our deck, may we paint a rug design on top of the stain?

A: We do not suggest painting any deck or any portion of it.

Q: I painted my deck with a latex deck paint. Unfortunately, it looks very bad in the high traffic areas and needs to be repainted yearly. Should I remove the deck paint and reseal the deck? If so, what is the best way to remove the paint? And does wood need any special treatment after the paint is removed?

A: I would recommend removing the deck paint if possible. You can try a deck stripper made for latex paint or it can be sanded off. If you get to the raw wood use a high quality sealer like ADMTM 2000. It comes in ten colors. Decks painted will always peel.... Stripper/HTML
Q: I have just read about cedar decks and found out that they are sealed and not painted. My deck is painted and I would like to keep it that way. How do I maintain it?

A: Paint the deck with a good quality exterior porch and deck enamel. Do a small test area to make sure the paint will hold.

Q: I'd like to know if I could put a varnish or lacquer over a non-color sealer to give it a satin shine?

A: I would not recommend putting any kind of filmed coating, such as varnish, on decks or rails. Most of the time the coating fails and lifts from the wood. It is also a high maintenance coating.
 

WAX SPILLED:

Q: How should I remove the candle wax that was spilled on my newly treated pine deck?  I had citronella candle spilled on my deck and it was not cleaned up until two days later. I am now trying to get the stain out and the deck wash is not helping. Do you have any suggestions?

A: Use a putty knife to remove the bulk of the wax. Then you can apply hot soapy water and blot it up. You might try a wax and grease remover. But first try it on a small inconspicuous area to assure there will not be any discoloration.  We have had the best luck with our steam cleaner. Hot water and a little pressure will do wonders.
 

FENCES:

Q: I have a cedar fence, which now has turned a dull gray. What can I do to get the natural color back to my fence?

A:  Power wash the fence and restore the color with ADM Wood Brightener. Then you will have to seal the fence. Deckstore.com/cleaner

Q: Is there a special product for prewashing an older cedar fence prior to refinishing?

A: Pressure wash your fence then apply ADM Wood Brightener (about 4 oz. of crystals to a gallon of water) and spray on to cover the fence an rinse off thoroughly. Deckstore.com/cleaner/HTML

Q: I have a new wooden fence with cedar pickets. The fence wasn't treated and when it rained the pickets warped. I haven't seen any other untreated fences like this, could you tell me the cause?

A: The wood was probably not dry when milled and warped when exposed to the sun. Replace the pickets and coat the fence right away. Try our ADM 2000. Deckstore.com/sealer

Q: We are in the process of installing a cedar fence. I have heard that you should let the cedar weather for one season and the stain. And yet I have also heard to seal it right away. What is your suggestion?

A: If you choose to stain you must let the fence weather. Or you can choose to seal with a tinted sealer, like ADMTM 2000, within a few weeks of installation.
 

FUNGUS - KNOTS - TAR - CARPENTING - INK:

Q: We just washed and treated our custom deck a few months ago. I have noticed that knots in the wood appear to be disappearing. I am assuming/guessing that there is some kind of bug eating away at them. Can you tell me what is causing this and how to prevent it?

A: The knots are probably dropping out. This happens to older wood. There is not too much you can do about it at this point. If the holes are too large, replace those boards.

Q: After moving into my home I found that the previous owner had hot mopped the second story deck and covered it with carpet. The carpet has now deteriorated, leaving the tar exposed and the now deck is leaking. It is necessary to remove all the tar to properly fix the leak or would a few nails and sealant do the job?

A: Sounds like it is time to call a GOOD roofer in your local area. It is possible that the previous owner may have covered up a bigger problem than a few nails and sealant could fix. 

Q: We are purchasing a home with a 12 year old deck. Inspection reports show fungus damage to the wood supports and on some of the boards. Fungus doesn't sound good. How serious is this problem?

A: Getting rid of the fungus should not be very hard. It can be power washed off and killed. Your supports should be made of treated lumber and the fungus should not do any further damage. 

Q: The builders have replaced part of my flooring with new treated deck board. They were placed down with the manufacturers ink stamp face up. What will remove this before we seal the boards?

A: The ink stamps we encounter usually come off during the restoration process or have been weathered off. You may want to try lacquer thinner and a scotch pad, first do a test spot in an inconspicuous area. If sanding is necessary, do it evenly and let the boards weather a month. Then clean and seal the deck.

Q: I have wood on my boats deck. It is half inch pressure treated plywood. There are a few spots of damp slimy mold and mildew spots. Any advice?

A: Give it a good scrubbing using a bleach solution. Clean the area thoroughly; check to see in a week or so if it comes back.  Repeat the process if necessary.

Q: I have a workshop outside and it had black fungus on the cedar boards. Can you tell me how to remove it?

A: You'll need to treat it with a 10% solution of bleach to water and scrub the board with soap then power wash. Then brighten with ADM Deck Brightener. Deckstore.com/cleaner
 

COST:

Q: I am trying to hire someone to clean and seal our deck (32x16) and a fence surrounding our pool. My head is spinning. I have estimates ranging from $650 to $2000. What should I be looking for?

A: The deck alone should be about a $650.00 to $725.00 for a high quality sealer.  Check out our ADMTM 2000. Look to pay about $1.00 per square foot for a good quality job.

Q: I would appreciate it if you could tell me what it would cost in labor to clean and seal the under and over of my deck. My deck measures 20x20. I have no idea what this should cost.

A: The top of the deck should cost about a dollar to $1.35 per sq. ft. for a good quality product. Now to seal the under side of the deck is a different story. Most people do not seal the under side of the deck because in many cases the cost exceeds the price of the topside. 
 

STRUCTURE & DRAINAGE:

Q: I'm building a cedar deck. What spacing is required between decking? Some people are saying no space and other 1/8.

A: It depends on how dry the wood is. Rule of thumb: cedar shrinks. So you can always be safe with 1/8. Never butt the wood if it doesn't shrink, you'll have that 1/8 inch.

Q: I am in the process of building a new deck. The lumberyard and contractor recommend just burying the pressure treated posts in cement pads. However, I see literature that recommends filling the hole with concrete and attaching the post with a bracket. Will burying the post be a bad idea?

A: Most building codes (at least in the Chicago area) require the bracket mounting method. Less contact with the ground is better.

Q: Is there a product made to use under a deck to drain the water? It collects under my deck and there is no good way to get it out.

A: You might try installing some drain tile starting under your deck and trenching at a declining angle out to a low point in our yard. Most decks built must have a higher grade and covered by plastic and stone. Or maybe dig a sump pump enclosure under your deck and discharge away from the deck. You may have to remove some decking boards to accomplish this. If so, replace the boards and refasten with decking screws.

Q: I am building deck to access a lower deck for wheel chair use. I have read the ramp should be no steeper than one inch in height to 12 inches in run. I also need to have a platform half way up the ramp to make a turn. How big does this platform have to be to handle a standard size wheel chair?

A: Measure the width of the wheel chair. The ramp width should be one and a half times the width of the chair. I would make the platform two times the width. Check your local building ordinance just to be safe.

Q: One 4 x 4 post supporting my front porch has sunk down a noticeable two or three inches. I believe it is sunk in concrete. How do I raise that corner of the porch a couple of inches? 

A: You will have to find yourself a bottle jack and raise it. Place the bottle jack under the area to be lifted.  Place on a hard surface (brick, heavy wood, etc.) Then cut a 4 x 4 to reach from the top of the jack to the bottom of the deck on the frame. Gently raise the deck. If the 4 x 4 is sunk in concrete, cut the 4 x 4 and slip a spacer between the post and toenail 4 x 4. Good Luck.

Q: We bought a house with a covered deck. We ripped off the old green outdoor carpeting and need to get the glue off. We are turning the boards over and using the best side wherever we can. Can this old glue be sanded off or is there something we should use first?

A: You might want to try a wax and grease remover or an acetone to help remove the glue. Sanding will probably be necessary.

Q: My deck is not very stable. The rails and posts are not very secure either. I am afraid it might collapse. How can I go about reinforcing the wood and posts?

A: We would really have to see what is going on with the structure to give any constructive advice. Please call a qualified contractor in your area.
 

MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS:

Q: I'm having problems with the squirrels chewing on my cedar siding. Is there any product that can be used to keep them from chewing? 

A: "Chew stop" will keep the squirrels form chewing. Call us for more information.

Q: Is there any way to tell which deck wash products are acidic and which are alkaline? Can I use an acidic wash/ brightener on pressure treated lumber?

A: We use an acidic on cedar but we haven't found many products that works well on treated pine. You can use a litmus paper to determine if a product is acidic or alkaline.

Q: I have a deck (veranda) that covers a carport below. The present flooring is plywood that originally had roofing type material that was painted. Do you know of a product that will fill holes/small gaps, is non-skid, and easy to clean?

A: Sounds like you might want to contact your local roofing supply warehouse. They should be able to supply you with the proper materials.

Q: Is pressure wash and power wash the same thing? 

A: Yes, both terms are used synonymously for pressure washers

Q: I am interested in the "Trex Company" and their deck materials for a new deck on my home in central Wisconsin. I think this material may be on expensive side as there was no mention of cost per ln.ft. My questions are: what is the cost per ln.ft. of each size available? And where can I find a supplier of this product?

A: We can find you a distributor or Trex products. Trex is fastened from the underside with special clamps. So you must take into account the cost of framing fasteners and planking. I believe it comes in three colors.